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When assembling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, tucked high among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a outlying part of north London.

A Unexpected Recognition

The small Turkish spot, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has left the family totally astonished.

“I am totally surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their modest place securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Simplicity

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular spot, has kept much of its earlier charm. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the fare, and this establishment certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is often eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, toastier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this modest spot has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I don’t believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is likely to echo beyond its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater importance of this culinary honour.